STATE CASHMERE

Aleksi Ojanen

State Cashmere Logo (2)

Young Mongolian shepherds herd cashmere goats (1)

 Exhibit Overview

Key Concepts

  • The representation of Asia in a stereotyped way that is regarded as embodying a colonialist attitude. [1]

  • Situations where employees are made to work under unfair and/or unfavorable conditions, including long hours, without fair pay, etc. [2]

  • Refers to a set of stereotypes that are composed of several positive qualities purportedly unique to all Asian Americans, including being hard-working, intelligent, and law-abiding.[3]

In a world where many valuable Asian commodities have become increasingly popular, the case of expensive cashmere is no different. However, this growing demand for cashmere seems to be at the expense of Asian workers and Asian Americans. The blatant disregard by United States companies for Asian workers has been evident, through exploitation and inadequate compensation. This has come in the name of orientalism, which values products associated with Asia more than the workers who assist in the production of the product. Through consumerism strategies such as this, it is made abundantly clear to Asian Americans that companies in the United States underappreciate their race and value to society, and instead only focus on creating revenue out of the products or services that they provide. This lack of appreciation enables the creation of something like the Model Minority Myth, which is detrimental to Asian Americans everywhere.  In this exhibit, I will take a deep dive into the Mongolian cashmere situation, the histories of orientalism and the Model Minority Myth, and examples of the impact that all three have on Asian Americans in the 21st century.


BRAND SUMMARY

State Cashmere Products and Motto (3,4)

State Cashmere is a Mongolian-American cashmere clothing company based out of New York, New York. Founded in 2017 by Hao Rong, a Mongolian-American immigrant from a line of Mongolian shepherds, State Cashmere promises to provide their customers with the best quality cashmere sweaters, hats, and other products. However, this promise has been harder to uphold in recent years due to changing Mongolian lifestyles, shorter harvesting periods, and overgrazing of Mongolia’s steppe. This, along with the United States’ increasing demand, supply chain unreliability, and demand for higher quality cashmere have forced Mongolian shepherds to work longer and harder, all while receiving a fraction of what they made in the past. This has put pressure on State Cashmere to make a decision on continuing to provide customers Mongolian cashmere, or threatening the shepherds’ way of life by switching to the cheaper option of Chinese cashmere. [4]


Introduction

CNN Facebook Video About Mongolian Cashmere Harvesting Process (5)

It is an age-old commodity. You and I both grew up knowing about it, and a relative of mine even got my mother a scarf made out of it for Christmas. The practice has existed in Mongolia for over 4,500 years, but is dying off at an alarming rate[5]. It is cashmere. The video to the left shows the entire process, which is becoming increasingly difficult due to many economic issues among the herders in Mongolia. The CNN video describes many of the valued characteristics of cashmere, including it being “warm, lightweight, and incredibly soft”[6]. The video later describes Mongolian shepherds’ new preference for selling their cashmere to domestic clothing companies, along with the idea that turning away from international export might be the way to keep the practice of Mongolian herding alive. Doing this will allow for Mongolian shepherds to make much more of a profit in the long-run. However, one main question remains: Why is this transition from international business to domestic business happening?


In a peer-reviewed article by Masgut Rysbyek and Su Lei, the economic answer to the previous question is provided. First, it is clear that cashmere production is extremely valuable to the Mongolian economy. According to the article,  “Cashmere is Mongolia’s third major official export, after gold and copper. The export of this commodity provides income to more than a third of the country’s 2.4 million people”[7]. Many of the people that rely on the Cashmere industry’s success are in lower income brackets in Mongolia, and consist mainly of shepherds, farmers, and manufacturing workers. As times continue to change and cashmere is demanded in greater volumes, farmers are also faced with a demand for greater cashmere quality[8]. As described on State Cashmere’s website “State Cashmere - Official Site | Hardcore Soft”, their products are “made from only the finest Grade A cashmere”. This Grade A cashmere, which is the highest possible quality, is only 1 ⁄ 3 of the thickness of a human hair. Furthermore, five goats worth of this Grade A wool is needed to make one sweater[9]. With much more of this high-quality cashmere being requested, Mongolian harvesters and shepherds need to charge greater prices for their coveted good. In addition, they are forced to work much harder in the spring to comb, harvest the wool from the goats, and transport it to be sold. However, instead of agreeing to pay the higher prices, many clothing companies instead look to China, who is able to produce Grade A cashmere in much greater quantities[10]. This leaves Mongolian workers in the dust, feeling taken advantage of and left without any reward for their hard work.  


Grade A Cashmere is the rarest, with 5 goats worth being extremely expensive (6, 7)

Orientalism and the Model Minority Myth

In the American fashion industry, many Asian products are placed on a pedestal. From Japanese silk to Mongolian cashmere, many Americans will pay top dollar to companies for a chance to own such coveted materials. However, there is little regard for the workers that give Americans the chance to own such products. In an age where unethical consumerism is expanding, from Nike to State Cashmere, it seems as if many customers do not question the morals or backgrounds of the products that they purchase. According to a peer-reviewed paper by Mike Featheringstone, the extensive advertisement present in the United States has created a culture in which “taste in cultural goods functions as a marker of class”[11]. This has allowed consumers to develop a mindset of  “as long as I can get it, it does not matter how”[12]. And Asian Americans are at the brunt of this mindset.


Orientalism, as stated above, does little to capture the complete nature of Asian culture. It instead picks and chooses which elements of Asian culture to sensationalize and profit off of. This harms Asian Americanss in their self-confidence, subliminally creating a false idea or notion of inferiority to others. According to a peer-reviewed paper by Damir Skenderovic, “In the Western imagination, the oriental “Other” is a construction that hardly corresponds to any kind of reality, but is strongly influenced by concrete geopolitical interests.[13]” This statement is certainly true in the example of State Cashmere, but also contributes further to the idea of inferiority. The idea that Asian commodities and benefits to society are only to promote Western culture creates racist ideas and stereotypes, which contribute to the perpetuation of the model minority myth in Asian Americans.

The “Model Minority Myth” is one that has harmed Asian Americans for generations. From stereotypes about Asians and academic performance to Asian American economic success, the Model Minority Myth results in unrealistic expectations of Asian Americans in everyday life. In a peer-reviewed journal by Lata Murti, frustrations about expectations of Indian-American doctors are expressed. A short excerpt about Dr. Cheepak describes him showing his doctor’s coat to police officers, in order to 

‘Subconsciously’ use signs of his occupational status to ‘try to be more’ of a model minority and less of an angry brown man in the eyes of white America. Deepak is distancing or fragmenting himself from black and Latino masculinities, and displaying his affiliation with white and Asian masculinities.[14]


Cultural Appropriation from Orientalism has led to numerous protests across America (8)

Video Explaining the harm that the Model Minority Myth causes (9)

This example, although very saddening, is not uncommon. According to a paper by Jean Wing, many of these experiences of Asian Americans begin in early schooling. She states “Although Berkeley High School's Asian population is small, it has not escaped the stereotype. Reports on the D and F rates contain statistics on the differential achievement of white and Asian students on the one hand, and African American and Latino students on the other.[15]” This paper, which continues to dive into the stereotypes of the high school, shows one thing: Asian students are generalized on every level. From what they provide to the school district in terms of grades to their work as doctors, and even to the quality of cashmere that they produce, it is made abundantly clear that the United States has created a culture that removes much of the individuality of the Asian American population.

Worker Exploitation in Asian-America

Through the work experiences of some Asian Americans, comparisons can be made to see their treatment and that of cashmere workers in Mongolia. In a section of the Journal of Asian Americans Studies titled “Irresponsible State Care and the Virality of Nail Salons”, Preeta Sharmi writes about the poor work conditions of nail salons and the ways in which the Asian American nail technicians are taken advantage of. According to Sharmi, “South Asian and Southeast Asian nail salon workers—continue to bear the brunt of state-sanctioned vulnerability, expendability, and disposability.[16]” In other words, Asian American workers during the pandemic were exploited. From poor pay to long hours, to being faced by verbal tirades from rude customers, Asian American workers were in a terrible position. Does a lot of that sound similar? It should. The difficulties that many Asian American workers face, especially those in low profit margin professions, is the same as the Mongolian shepherds that are in the cashmere industry. While a company like State Cashmere plays an important role in valuing loyalty over the perils of consumer culture, they do not do everything they can to protect the lifestyle of the Mongolian herders. From climate change to long hours, Asian workers involved in the herding industry are faced with inequality and lack of appreciation for their work. According to a journal article by Daniel Murphy in the Journal of Peasant Studies, there is little alternative to this lifestyle for many herding families. He states that around 83.7% of families in the Mongolian region of Uguumur are registered livestock owners, which creates most of the region’s revenue[17].

The Majority of State Cashmere’s Models are White (12)

Asian-American Nail Salon workers are often faced with discrimination, long hours, and poor pay (10, 11)

 There is little to no option of leaving the industry and creating profit in Mongolia, which is similar to the situations of many Asian American nail salon and restaurant workers. The “recommendations” of leaving once again reinforce racist stereotypes, disregarding individual situations, traditions, and personal feelings of both Asian American and Mongolian workers. But that is no surprise. There is little regard for the feelings or the opinions of Asian Americans in the United States’ economy, evident through the Model Minority Myth and worker exploitation present everywhere from nail salons to farms. According to a peer-reviewed paper by Samuel D. Museus and Julie Park, it is consistent among the Asian Americans interviewed that there is “an existence of societal perceptions and beliefs that Western cultural values are more desirable than Asian Americans cultural values, which are viewed as undesirable cultural deficits.[18]” This myth of Asian inferiority is perpetuated throughout the entire world, in both the economy and in routine life. 


While viewing State Cashmere’s modeling and images of their apparel, one would be hard pressed to find an Asian model. The vast majority are white men and women, which further contributes to the idea that Asians are inferior. Every sweater was produced by a Mongolian farmer, transported by a Mongolian worker, and sold by a company with an Asian American owner. A lack of Asian representation in marketing further proves Western culture’s prioritization of Asian products and disregard of Asian people, highlighting every issue of Orientalism in the United States and abroad.


C0NCLUSION

State Cashmere’s business processes, along with their general disregard for Mongolian cashmere shepherds, serve as a microcosm of many of the issues that harm Asian Americans in the 21st century. The racist components of orientalism, the harmful nature and pressures associated with the Model Minority Myth, and the lack of appreciation for Asians and Asian Americans in undervalued roles and jobs are all present in the story of State Cashmere. The stories of Mongolian farmers and their legacies being damaged by manipulative United States companies serve as a constant reminder to Asian Americans of Western culture’s focus on the goods and services that they have to offer, not who they are as people. This promotes environments of hate, feelings of alienation and isolation among Asian Americans, and a need to overcompensate or prove oneself. This exhibit’s examination of the State Cashmere situation, along with the sociological concepts related to it, will hopefully foster conversations about awareness and the necessity of change in individual Asian appreciation, in both the United States and internationally.


References

  1. “Orientalism Definition & Meaning.” n.d. Merriam-Webster. Accessed December 16, 2023. https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/Orientalism.

  2. Mak, Martin. 2022. “Worker Exploitation: A Global Issue – IMMpress Magazine.” IMMpress Magazine. https://www.immpressmagazine.com/worker-exploitation-a-global-issue/.

  3. “Model Minority Myth - IResearchNet.” n.d. Psychology. Accessed December 16, 2023. https://psychology.iresearchnet.com/counseling-psychology/multicultural-counseling/model-minority-myth/#google_vignette.

  4. Takacs, Wendy E. The economic impact of export controls: an application to Mongolian cashmere and Romanian wood products. No. 1280. The World Bank, 1994.

  5. ND, Sustainable Cashmere of Mongolia PGI. Accessed December 16, 2023. https://www.sustainablecashmere.ngo/

  6. CNN Style. 2023. “How Mongolia's herders collect cashmere | clothing, Cashmere, goat | 40% of the world's cashmere comes from Mongolia, where nomadic herders have combed it from their goats for centuries. Now, a growing number of local... | By CNN.” Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/cnn/videos/how-mongolias-herders-collect-cashmere/1649976308818671/.

  7. Rysbyek, M., & Lei, S. (2022). Economic Impact of Mongolia’s Cashmere Export. Modern Economy, 13(2), 130-143.

  8. Ibid, 131

  9. State Cashmere - Official Site | Hardcore Soft. Accessed December 16, 2023. https://statecashmere.com/.

  10. Rysbek & Lei, 138.

  11. Featherstone, M. (1987). Lifestyle and consumer culture. Theory, Culture & Society, 4(1), 55-70.

  12. Ibid, 61.

  13. Skenderovic, Damir, and Christina Späti. "From Orientalism to Islamophobia: Reflections, confirmations, and reservations." ReOrient (2019).

  14. Murti, L. (2012). Who benefits from the white coat? Gender differences in occupational citizenship among Asian-Indian doctors. Ethnic and Racial Studies, 35(12), 2035–2053. https://doi.org/10.1080/01419870.2011.631555

  15. Wing, J.Y. Beyond Black and White: The Model Minority Myth and the Invisibility of Asian American Students. Urban Rev 39, 455–487 (2007). https://doi.org/10.1007/s11256-007-0058-6

  16. Sharma, Preeti. “Irresponsible State Care and the Virality of Nail Salons: Asian American Women’s Service Work, Vulnerability, and Mutuality.” Journal of Asian American Studies 23, no. 3 (2020): 491–509. https://doi.org/10.1353/jaas.2020.0037.

  17. Murphy, Daniel J. "From kin to contract: labor, work and the production of authority in rural Mongolia." Journal of Peasant Studies 42, no. 2 (2015): 397-424.

  18. Museus, Samuel D., and Julie J. Park. "The continuing significance of racism in the lives of Asian American college students." Journal of College Student Development 56, no. 6 (2015): 551-569.

Media Credit

  1. “Mongolian Sustainable Cashmere.” 2023. UN Development. https://th.bing.com/th/id/R.270796058a628667163209a1e8bc3d59?rik=5Hbyq%2fJ4gdtGgg&pid=ImgRaw&r=0.

  2. “Official Logo.” 2023. State Cashmere. https://th.bing.com/th?id=OIP.4ejWTLeVMqseGU69oH1FcQHaHa&w=110&h=110&c=7&rs=1&qlt=80&pcl=f9f9f9&o=6&cdv=1&pid=18.2.

  3. . “State Cashmere - Clothing (Brand).” 2021. Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/StateCashmereUSA/.

  4. Ibid

  5.  CNN Style. 2023. “How Mongolia's herders collect cashmere | clothing, Cashmere, goat | 40% of the world's cashmere comes from Mongolia, where nomadic herders have combed it from their goats for centuries. Now, a growing number of local... | By CNN.” Facebook. 

  6. State Cashmere - About Our Cashmere. Accessed December 16, 2023. https://statecashmere.com/.

  7. Ibid

  8. “Kimono protests.” 2023. Japan Trends. https://th.bing.com/th/id/R.c3f0e46c981b45a2ba2a2a1fdce073ea?rik=u%2fXLQELmmVogNw&riu=http%3a%2f%2fwww.japantrends.com%2fjapan-trends%2fwp-content%2fuploads%2f2015%2f07%2fmonet-la-japonaise-boston-museum-mfa-racist-kimono-protest-1.jpg&ehk=Ue7034ZWzrGyHoqt.

  9. 9 News. 2023. “What is the model minority myth and why is it harmful?” YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4P33JidAYcw.

  10.  “Vietnamese Nail Salons.” 2023. https://th.bing.com/th/id/R.4942a5079b55b5a7f2148bdac174b15e?rik=IbdkKhmC%2bqKR4Q&riu=http%3a%2f%2fa.scpr.org%2fi%2f86fce0d74b21f1036ef8ae0fd39cc515%2f79660-full.jpg&ehk=ASfgw4b6Jmec4bh2Lg2Ir3sQcQetTmsq2pNgwFjAXBU%3d&risl=&pid=ImgRaw&r=0.

  11.  “Nail Salon.” 2023. Shutterstock. https://th.bing.com/th/id/R.a594378f5eca91d87ea820ac00723f0b?rik=boGMBwnyHFVCYg&riu=http%3a%2f%2fak8.picdn.net%2fshutterstock%2fvideos%2f14881408%2fthumb%2f1.jpg&ehk=UwtbT%2b4pNiPa9%2ftChES5FNpTRhoKIRTun516xeUHYDc%3d&risl=&pid=ImgRaw&r=0.

  12. Our Products.” 2023. State Cashmere. https://th.bing.com/th/id/OIP.kgPjDYaWX0qj5saAbd4bBwHaP8?rs=1&pid=ImgDetMain.